Brisket and beer

This is a winter warmer that gets right to the heart of slow cooking. I am introducing you to the wonders of the cartouche - essentially a layer of wet, scrunched up grease-proof paper that sits on the surface of a slow simmering stew, to keep any evaporating liquid circulating and stop the meat or surface from developing a hard, dry crust. The tagine principle, in effect. Cut a circle of GPP or baking parchment to a size just larger than the pot, scrunch it up into a ball and run it under the cold tap.

I was delighted to find Galloway beef at a farm shop in the Lake District and took it as a apposite sign. Brisket is a cheaper cut of meat that is perfect for slow cooking, and it was whisked back to London and straight in to the pot.

Ingredients, to serve 4 people

  • 900g beef brisket
  • 1 tbsp sunflower / vegetable oil
  • 1 large onion, sliced
  • 1 bulb fennel, sliced
  • 2 sticks celery, sliced
  • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced or diced
  • 2tbsp plain flour
  • 1 bay leaf
  • handful of fresh chopped rosemary and/or thyme, or a tsp of dried
  • 250ml stock (or a tin of Guinness or brown ale)
  • salt and pepper

METHOD

Heat the oil in a cast-iron casserole pot, and brown the brisket, turning so it is evenly coloured on all sides. Remove and set aside on a plate to catch any juices.

Add a bit more oil if necessary, and brown the vegetables. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir through. Put the meat back in the pot on top of the veg (with any juices), add the bay leaf and fresh herbs and the stock or beer.

Bring to a simmer, cover with the cartouche, put the lid on, turn the heat down to minimum (use a diffuser if necessary, or put it in the oven at 140C/280F) and cook for 1.5-2 hours, turning the meat halfway through cooking.

Check the meat after 90 minutes, it should be starting to fall apart. If not, give it another half an hour.

Then take the meat out of the pot and set aside. Boil up the remaining juices and veg until it thickens to the consistency you want. Check the seasoning, add a pinch of sugar if it seems too sharp, or a tablespoon of crème fraiche for a richer sauce.

You can leave the veg in the sauce, or strain the liquid for a more refined finish. Slice the meat and add it back into the sauce, and serve with mashed potatoes.

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